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Structure of the Hair root:
Below the surface of the skin is the
hair root, which is enclosed within a hair follicle. At the
base of the hair follicle is the dermal papilla. The dermal
papilla is feed by the bloodstream which carries
nourishments to produced new hair. The dermal papilla is a
structure very important to hairgrowth. Because it contains
receptors for male hormones and androgens.
Structure of Hair:
Each strand of hair consists of three
layers.
-
An
innermost layer or medulla which is only present in
large thick hairs.
-
The
middle layer known as the cortex. The cortex provides
strength and both the color and the texture of hair.
-
The
outermost layer is known as the cuticle. The cuticle is thin
and colorless and serves as a protector of the cortex.
Hair
Chemistry:
Hair fibers are composed of
approximately 85% of the complex protein keratin, with some
7% of associated water. The other principal ingredients are
lipids 3% and pigment 2%. This last component is melanin,
derived in biosynthesis from the amino acid tyrosine. Also
present are trace amounts of many metals. The most important
material is keratin which has been formed biochemically from
the condensation of some 18 types of amino acids.
Hair is composed of strong structural
protein called keratin. This is the same kind of protein
that makes up the nails and the outer layer of skin.
Hair color and Pigments:
Hair
color is caused by pigment granules in the cells of the hair
shaft. The effect is produced by the large amount of pigment
in the cortex, but granules also occur in the medulla. The
pigment is manufactured within melanocytes situated around
the apex of the dermal papilla and transferred to the newly
formed hair cells from the tips of their finger-like
dendrites.
The
shades of human hair result mainly from two kinds of
pigment, eumelanin, which is brown or black, and
phaeomelanin which is yellow
or
reddish .
.
The
Hair Growth Cycle:
Hair follicles grow in repeated
cycles. One cycle can be broken down into three phases.
-
Anagen - Growth phase
-
Catagen – Transitional phase
-
Telogen – Resting phase
Each hair
passes through the phases independent of the neighboring
hairs.
Anagen
phase – Growth phase:
Approximately 85% of all hairs are in the growing phase at
any one time. The Anagen phase or growth phase can vary from
two to six years. Hair grows approximately 10cm per year and
any individual hair is unlikely to grow more than one meter
long.
Catagen
phase – Transitional phase:
At the end
of the Anagen phase the hairs enters into a catagen phase
which lasts about one or two weeks, during the Catagen phase
the hair follicle shrinks to about 1/6 of the normal length.
The lower part is destroyed and the dermal papilla breaks
aways to rest below.
Telogen
phase – Resting phase:
The
resting phase follows the catagen phase and normally lasts
about 5-6 weeks. During this time the hair does not grow but
stays attached to the follicle while the dermal papilla
stays in a resting phase below. Approximately 10-15 percent
of all hairs are in this phase at a one time.
At the end
of the Telogen phase the hair follicle re-enters the Anagen
phase.
The dermal
papilla and the base of the follicle join together again and
a new hair begins to form. If the old hair has not already
been shed the new hair pushes the old one out and the growth
cycle starts all over again.
Different Types of Hair:
1-Greasy Hair:
Frequency and instances of
washing the hair should be proportionate to
level of hair grease. Greasy
hair should be washed once a day with
Special shampoo for greasy
hair.
2-Dry Hair:
The drier
is the hair; frequency of washing should be prolonged.
Washing of dry hair with
special shampoo for dry hair twice or trice a
Week would be
sufficient.
Hair
Disorders:
Dandruff:
Dandruff
appears with specific signs and peeling of skull mucus. The
complication mostly afflicts people in their youth. Common
cause of this complication is called seborrhea Dermal that
creates scab-like pustules and rash. Washing the hair
regularly with a mild shampoo that is formulated for daily
use is a suitable treatment of dandruff.
Dandruff
is a condition of the scalp characterized by the massive
desquamation of small flakes of stratum corneum .
The
scales may be dry or trapped in a film of sebum. Dandruff is
uncommon in infancy and early childhood, but by puberty
about half of all males and females become affected and in
many it persists throughout life. It must therefore be
considered as a physiological state rather than a disease
and as such, falls very much in the cosmetic rather than the
clinical field.
The
causation of dandruff is still debatable. Perhaps
constitution or as in acne, stimulation by Androgens or
other physiological factors plays a part.
Split Ends of Hair:
The
cuticle cells on the surface of hair have an overlapping,
roof-tile like formation. This means that the friction of
the fibre is considerably less when it is measured from root
to tip than when measured the reverse way. The hairdressing
practice of back-coming takes advantage of this property.
Backcombed hair is more manageable than if it had been
conventionally combed or brushed. In back-coming, the hair
surface is, to a certain extent, damaged through the
detachment of some of the cuticle cells. The loss of these
cells roughens the hair surface and thus increases
interfibre friction. This means that individual hairs are
less likely to separate from their neighbours. |